Who it’s for · Buying and selling
What you actually made, after everything.
If you sell as well as buy, the number most people quote themselves is the difference between what they paid and what they sold for. That number is almost always wrong, and it is wrong in the flattering direction.
Everything that sits between the two prices
A watch bought at $8,000 and sold at $10,000 did not make $2,000. What happened in between:
| On the way in | While you owned it | On the way out |
|---|---|---|
| Purchase price | Servicing | Commission or platform fee |
| Duties and import tariffs | Parts and repairs | Shipping and insured transit |
| Shipping and insurance in transit | Straps, links, winders | Authentication or appraisal for the sale |
| Authentication before purchase | Insurance premiums | Payment-processing fees |
Not every line applies to every sale. The point is that the two you remember — what you paid and what you sold for — are the only two most people record.
Auction is where the gap is widest
A hammer price is not a transaction. Buyer’s premium sits on top — as of 2026 roughly 27–28% on the first band at the major houses — and the seller separately pays commission out of the hammer. Comparing an auction result against a retail asking price without adjusting for both sides is the most common valuation error there is. See how to value a watch.
Cost basis is the number that does the work
Cost basis is everything you actually spent acquiring a piece — purchase price plus duties, shipping and acquisition costs. Measured against basis rather than against the sticker price, a fair number of trades that felt like wins turn out to have been roughly flat, and a few that felt flat were losses.
That is not a reason to stop trading. It is a reason to know, because the alternative is a mental P&L that drifts steadily optimistic and quietly informs what you are willing to pay next time.
Realized and unrealized must not be added together
An estimate you made about a watch you still own.
Your own valuation of what a piece might fetch, minus what it has cost you. Useful for insurance planning and for deciding what to sell. It is not money, and it moves whenever you revise the estimate.
What actually happened, after every fee.
Sale proceeds less commission and fees, less cost basis, less everything spent while you owned it. This is the only figure that reflects a transaction rather than an opinion.
A combined total is a fantasy with a real number in it.
Adding a firm figure to a soft one produces something that looks precise and is not. Keeping them separate is the difference between a record and a story you are telling yourself.
What Watch Register does for this
- Cost basis assembled from its parts — purchase price, duties and tariffs, shipping and insurance in transit — rather than one number you have to compute yourself.
- Servicing and repairs carried against the piece, so total invested reflects the years of ownership rather than just the day you bought it.
- Sale detail recorded properly: proceeds, commission, fees, and the date, producing a realized figure that survives scrutiny.
- Realized and unrealized kept strictly apart, and never summed into a single headline number.
- Disposition records retained — sold pieces stay in the register with their full history rather than disappearing, which is what makes a multi-year picture possible at all.
- Held on your own machine, which for anyone trading regularly means a complete transaction history that no marketplace, platform or third party holds a copy of.
What it does not do, and will not
No market-price feed, no trend data, no alerts, no automatic valuations — all of them require a network connection the application does not have. It also produces records, not tax documents: whether a sale is reportable and how gains are treated where you live is a question for an accountant, and nothing here is tax advice.
Common questions
How do I calculate profit on a watch I sold?
Sale proceeds less commission and fees, less cost basis, less everything spent while you owned it. Cost basis is the purchase price plus duties, shipping and acquisition costs — not the sticker price. Measured that way, a fair number of trades that felt like wins turn out to have been roughly flat.
What is cost basis for a watch?
Everything you actually spent acquiring it: purchase price, duties and tariffs, shipping and insurance in transit, and any authentication before purchase. It is the number a real gain or loss is measured against, and it is usually meaningfully higher than the price you remember paying.
Should I count unrealized gains in what my collection is worth?
Track it, but never add it to realized figures. Unrealized is your own estimate of what pieces you still hold might fetch; realized is what actually happened after every fee. Combining a soft number with a firm one produces something that looks precise and is not.
Do auction fees really matter that much?
Yes. A hammer price is not a transaction — buyer’s premium sits on top, roughly 27 to 28 per cent on the first band at the major houses as of 2026, and the seller separately pays commission out of the hammer. Comparing an auction result to a retail asking price without adjusting both sides is the most common valuation error there is.
Does Watch Register produce tax documents?
No. It produces records — what you paid, what you spent, what you sold for and when. Whether a sale is reportable and how any gain is treated where you live is a question for an accountant, and nothing the application produces is tax advice.
How to value a watch → · What a full set is worth → · A significant collection →